How to Make a Simple-Four Patch Quilt Block ~Tutorial
This site contains affiliate links from which we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Thank you for your support!
Our first block in our Sampler Quilt is going to be one of the simplest pieced quilt blocks – the humble four-patch block. As I said in our Sampler Quilt Introductory post, this series is a beginning quilting series, designed as the perfect project for first-time quilters. However, just because this is meant for a beginning quilter, it doesn’t mean quilters of all skill levels can’t join in!
My plan in all of this is to build a library of free quilt tutorials with easy blocks, and next year, start another series with more difficult ones, so that we can all gain new skills.
Let’s Talk 4-Patch Blocks!
The four-patch block is a very basic block, consisting of four squares of fabric sewn together. The four squares can all be different fabrics -they can be a variation of dark fabrics and light ones, with the dark squares alternating between the lighter ones. They can be two squares of the same fabric offset with two squares of a different fabric. Even though it is such a simple block, there can be many variations to give the block different looks.
Where Can Four-Patch Quilt Blocks Be Used?
There are lots of ways a 4-patch quilt block can be used. It can be used as a standalone block with added sashing, or as a part of other blocks, which we will be exploring a bit more later this year. It is a great block to use to alternate between other blocks, even orphan blocks that you might be trying to use up.
A large number of four-patch blocks sewn together can create a very modern quilt, like a checkerboard quilt… where you can hardly even tell that the main block is actually a four-patch. This classic block is often used for smaller quilted projects, like a table runner, placemat or a wall hanging.
It is a perfect block to use as cornerstones between other blocks, and in borders, or sashing… particularly if you are using small squares to make small four-patch units.
Two Ways to Make Four-Patches
There are two main ways to make four-patches. I can’t say that one is an easier way than another; they are just different techniques and depend on what you have on hand and the project you are making
Strip method
One way is to use strips. Make a strip set by sewing two strips together, pressing towards the dark fabric, and then cross-cutting. You will have two pairs of squares. You can then flip the pairs and sew them into 4-patch units. This is a great way to use up leftover jelly roll strips or other fabric strips you may have left from other projects. The size of strips and the width will determine how many blocks you will get out of each pair. Easy strip piecing is a quick way to make an easy quilt, and a fun way to make the simple 4-patch. I have used this method in particular in a baby quilt.
Using Squares
The other method is to simply use squares and sew them together as a group of four. This is the method we will be using today.
This method is perfect for using up leftover squares from other projects, a charm pack, and any small scraps you might have lying around.
Ok, enough chatter, let’s get started on making a four-patch quilt block!
Four-Patch Quilt Block Tutorial
Fabric Requirements for a Single Block – 12 1/2″ Unfinished
Fabric
- background fabric
- two scraps of feature fabric
These are the fabrics I have chosen for this block:

Cutting Instructions
From the background fabric:
- Cut 2 (two) 6 1/2″ squares
From the two pieces of scrap feature fabric:
- Cut 1 (one) 6 1/2″ square from each fabric
for a total of four 6 1/2″ squares:

Step 1
We are going to start with laying out our pieces on the cutting mat, in the position where they are going to end up… After most steps we will be bringing back the pieces to this same format so that we don’t get confused and sew the wrong pieces together. With the four-patch this may seem like it is over obvious, but it is a good habit to get into for future blocks.
So, lay the four squares out like this:

Step 2
We are going to sew the pieces in rows, so take the top two squares and place them right sides together. Pin them together on the right-hand side, and sew them together with a quarter-inch seam allowance:

You can see that the feature fabric is on the bottom and the background fabric is on the top. I always like to use three pins – one at each end of the pieces and one in the middle. You can use more if you like.
Step 3
Place the sewn blocks back in the position on the cutting board that they were in….

Yep! It looks good!
Step 4
Now sew the bottom two blocks together. You will see that this time the background fabric is on the bottom, and the feature fabric is on the top:

Step 5
You guessed it, place the fabric back in the right position on the cutting board:

You’re going to get sick of me telling you that… but it is a good habit to get into!
Step 6
Before we sew the two rows together, we need to take them to the ironing board.
First up, we need to “set the seams”.
Setting the seams in a quilt block helps the thread sink into the fabric and makes it better when pressing the seams to whichever direction is needed. It also helps to smooth out any tension issues that may have arisen while stitching.
To set the seams, simply place your iron on top of the seams for a few seconds…

Step 7
Press the seams towards the dark side. If you like, you can finger press the seam in the right direction first to help..
I usually find that if I place the pieces on the ironing board with the lighter fabric on the bottom, then flip the darker fabric up, I can just slide the iron across and it presses it perfectly…

Do this with both rows and then….
Yep, bring them back to the ironing board! This is what it will look like from the back:

Place them back in the right positions for the next step:

Step 8
Now we are going to sew the rows together. We are going to pin them, starting with matching up the centers. With the seams pressed in opposite directions, they should nest together nicely:

You can tell if you have “nested” them properly if you go over the join with your thumb and finger, and it is nice and smooth – no bumps!
Pin! I like to pin on an angle with one half of the pin in the left seam and the other half in the right seam, like this:

This way it holds both seams in place and nothing moves. You can also use special pins like these:
But I usually just use one pin on a diagonal. See which works best for you!
Pin at each end and then add a few more in the middle…

It’s always better to overpin than underpin!
Also, try to sew right up as close to the pin as possible before you take it out – again, this helps keep the fabric in place. Sew slow!!!! It’s not a race!

Step 9
Now we need to take it back to the ironing board and set that center seam that we just sewed.

And instead of pressing to one side or the other, we will be pressing the seam open. Fingerpress it first, then use the iron….
This is how it will look from the back:

All Done
And here it is on the design wall, all done!

The block should measure 12 1/2″.
And that is it for our first quilt block in our Classic Sampler!
Printable Tutorial Style Pattern
You can purchase a printer-friendly and ad-free version of this tutorial for a small price here:
Four-Patch Quilt Block ~ A Tutorial Style Pattern ~
Christmas Version
Here is a pic of the Christmas one I made on YouTube using Lori Holt’s Home Town Holiday Fabric:

and both on the design wall:

YouTube Video
You can watch the video tutorial here if you like:
Happy Quilting!



